Quantcast
Channel: Food & Drinks – Indianapolis Monthly
Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 122

BEST OF INDY: DINING

$
0
0

Dine-In Food Truck
A food truck in every sense of the word, Platanos Venezuelan Food is a sit-down restaurant housed inside a converted school bus painted white and parked next to Tractor Supply in Noblesville. Step aboard, grab a stool or slide into one of the two-seater booths, and watch as the chefs in back work their magic, sizzling up classics like meat-stuffed arepas and fried plantains. Don’t miss the cachapas—warm corn pancakes filled with shredded meat and gooey cheese. As with every dish, they are served hot off the grill and presented with two squirt bottles—one a punchy pickle mayonnaise and the other simply described as “hot” by the server, who assures diners that it is perfectly fine to apply both at once. 2375 Pleasant St., Noblesville, 317-551-2473  —Julia Spalding

Skewers
The noodle dishes and boba at Chill’n Camp Tea & BBQ are all well and good, but this Castleton strip mall joint sticks the landing with its flavorful skewers. Bamboo spikes loaded with the likes of beef, lamb, mini sausages, enoki mushrooms, and Taishan cauliflower arrive at the table on a heated tray to keep them warm—a thoughtful detail. 5919 E. 82nd St., 317-516-1528  —Amy Lynch

Halal Market
When Farook Abashaar bought the small grocery business that is now International Foods Halal Supermarket in 2011, he wanted fresh, hand-slaughtered halal chicken, beef, and lamb from regional suppliers to be the focus for his largely Arab and Yemeni customers. But he continued to expand his offerings with a full assortment of flaky flatbreads and pita baked daily. After taking over a nearby storefront five years ago, Farook and his manager Mohammed Abashaar added a juice bar with avocado and mango smoothies, ice cream, za’atar and lamb manakish, cheese and spinach pies, baklava, and made-to-order sandwiches on baguettes baked in-house. 4861 W. 38th St., 317-672-7685  —Terry Kirts

New Wine Bar
Solely Wine Bar is quickly becoming a destination pit stop where the Monon Trail crosses 16th Street. The flower mural on the exterior invites visitors into a living room–like space. Here, savvy pourers share a unique list of reds, whites, and sparkling varietals, with an emphasis on low-intervention products from small-volume operations. “We focus on the discovery of new wines, encouraging more mindful sips and connecting other wine enthusiasts,” says owner Amanda McLaurin. 1102 E. 16th St., 770-617-6118  —AL

Vegan Chef
The day after Nicole-Taylor’s Pasta + Market + Backroom Eatery partner and chef Logan McMahan appeared on Season 2 of Top Vegan in early October, the dish he made on the episode, mushroom cannelloni with hazelnut romesco, sold out in the first half hour of lunch service. That’s not surprising given the positive response to the seasonal, plant-focused eats that McMahan has brought to the menu at the SoBro cafe and dinner space he helms with fellow chef Erin Kem. There’s nothing substituted or used “in place of” animal protein here, which is how McMahon sees the growth and future of plant-based cuisine. Omnivores and vegans alike have embraced the pair’s transition to offering more naturally meat-free dishes such as Egyptian koshari with chickpeas and crispy onions or Turkish manti with lentils and a smoky tomato sauce—recipes from the Mediterranean coast that will get their fuller expression after the pasta market is remodeled into a restaurant McMahan and Kem will call Corridor in early 2025. 1134 E. 54th St., 317-257-7374  —AL

Yemeni Coffeehouse
Among the recent surge of spots offering the rich tradition of coffee roasting and brewing from the Middle East, Yafa Golden Coffee has emerged as a standout. Manager Ali Ali, who has worked in Arab bakeries in the past, conceived of the idea along with his father Yasser Ali and uncle Younes Ali. The trio found a coffee grower in the village of Yafa, from where part of their family hails. They roast the coffee in-house for drinks such as the aromatic Yafa Special, spiced with cardamom and turmeric. The Alis also brought in Ali Alwardi, a former teacher from Chicago who started baking during the pandemic, to produce a line of pastries such as a popular cream cheese–filled honeycomb pastry. Chai, red tea with mint, and fruit smoothies complete the menu at the storefront that celebrates the Yemeni coffeehouse as a social spot for lingering with friends. 14160 Mundy Dr., Noblesville, 317-400-5959  —TK

Lemonade Stand
A stint at a lemonade stand is a childhood memory many of us share, though the experience was hardly as life-changing for most as it was for Jennifer Wiese. Her nonprofit, BeeFree, benefits adults with autism and other forms of neurodiversity. And her stand—technically a trailer that sets up at Hamilton County farmers markets and special events —is a means for people with disabilities, many of whom have never had a job, to gain food preparation and customer service experience. Wiese chose lemonade to sell because its ingredients are simple, yet it’s made using distinct steps. Lemons are washed and soaked before slicing, then juiced with the skin on (which is what Wiese says gives it “that lemony punch”). Sugar—or monk fruit sweetener—goes in, then ice, water, and finally, upon request, a seasonal flavor. The tangy elixir is shaken well, then served up in a lidded chef’s container. The most frequent comment from first-time sippers? “That’s the best lemonade I’ve ever had.”  —Christina Vercelletto

Boozy Shakeups
Since cocktail lovers Dan and Jamie Fahrner partnered with chef Nick Traeger in 2021 to open their boutique gin distillery Hi & Mighty at the Indiana State Fairgrounds, the trio has kept the creative juices flowing—and shaking—with a line of canned cocktails that has all the whimsy of a summer’s day at a country festival and the sophistication of a swanky speakeasy. And while their original Lemon Shake-up is the gold standard for its balanced pucker and sweetness, with a modest alcohol kick, the line has expanded to other fruity flavors such as peach, cherry, an autumn spice apple version, and a berry-infused creation called Cool Blue in honor of the Butler Bulldogs.  —TK

Soda Case
For thirsty race fans, The Famous Tomato appears as a beacon of carbonated delights in the shadow of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway. The produce at the front of the specialty grocery is merely a suggestion displayed directly across the aisle from an array of old-fashioned candy. The true attraction here is the expansive selection of literally hundreds of sodas. Coolers and shelves along three walls teem with retro bottles of Dr. Pepper, Green River, and Nehi alongside cans of newfangled concoctions like New Creation Soda Works’ banana and butter pecan cream sodas. More unconventional fizzes include ranch dressing, ghost pepper, and dirt flavors, but only for the most daring “pop culture” connoisseurs. 5002 W. 10th St., 317-390-4347  —Andrea Ratcliff

Greek Pastries
Forget Paris. If you can get past the saganaki, dolmades, and moussaka, family-owned Petos Bakery on downtown Carmel’s charming Main Street beguiles with some of the flakiest pastry this side of the Mediterranean. Gorgeous layers of filo dough find their way into savory spanakopita, custard-filled galaktoboureko, and several variations of picture-perfect baklava. P.S. The traditional beignet-like loukoumades dusted with powdered sugar call to mind the best state fair funnel cake you ever had. 11 W. Main St., Carmel, 317-853-6837  —AL

Egg Sandwich
The Korean egg drop sandwiches at global franchise Momo up the ante at hybrid coffee and doughnut shop Bober Tea & Coffee + Mochi Dough. The restaurant drops fluffy scrambled eggs and tasty fillings like ham, avocado, pesto chicken, Spam, and spicy pork between toasted slabs of milk bread and calls it breakfast. A drizzle of kicky Momo special sauce is the icing on the … er, sandwich. 110 W. Main St., Carmel  —AL

Fried Chicken Dinner
Honky-tonk restaurant Duke’s full fried chicken, accurately referred to as The Whole Damn Thing, is still crackling when it arrives at your table in all its glistening, golden glory. Its secret might be its brine, a soak of salt, pepper, garlic, and seasonings, that leaves the insides delicately flavored beneath its extra-crispy, gently spiced crust. A bounty of sides, including a standout mac and cheese, pickles, and biscuits, accompany the bird. 2352 S. West St., 317-643-6403  —Eve Batey

Fresh Pasta
Pillowy gnocchi, pappardelle with meaty Bolognese, and decadent lobster ravioli have held pride of place on the Bluebeard menu since the restaurant’s very beginning. Taking the kitchen reins from Abbi Merriss earlier this year, chef Alan Sternberg is busy putting his own distinctive stamp on the fresh pasta program with new shapes, sauces, and garnishes. “Pasta is an amazing vehicle for showcasing seasonal products that come in our kitchen door,” he says. 653 Virginia Ave., 317-686-1580  —AL

Caviar Service
Commission Row’s caviar spread is an unapologetic indulgence, every tiny spoonful a nod to fish roe’s regal history. The posh downtown chophouse presents the delicacy—tins of imported Regiis Ova, prized for its creamy, nutty pops of flavor and impeccably smooth texture—at the center of a gleaming platter, surrounded by little bowls of yolk pudding, creme fraiche, capers, pickled shallots, and chives. Accompanied by miniature Yukon blini and gaufrette potatoes as base layers, the elegant starter is designed to be gobbled in multiple decadent variations. 110 S. Delaware St., 317-550-2500  —JS

Banh Mi
Indy has no shortage of the iconic Southeast Asian baguette sandwich served at plenty of Vietnamese pho spots around the city. Yet the crisp, fresh-baked bread at Hanna’s Banh Mi Bakery & Cafe, which took over a former drive-thru bank location in Castleton earlier this year, as well as the plentiful options for fillings make this newcomer the true standard-bearer for the dish. The special with barbecued pork, ham, and pate is a must, but a version with luscious, golden-crusted pork belly is a decadent lunchtime treat. Shredded chicken, meatballs, and grilled pork are also good bets, but don’t pass up specialty croissant sandwiches or the array of soup and rice dishes from the bakery’s full-service kitchen. Mochi doughnuts and a nice selection of other baked goods, as well as coffee drinks, make this your new go-to spot for real-deal Vietnamese sandwiches and sweets. 8510 Center Run Dr., 317-685-9999  —TK

New Pizza Shop
Occupying a near-eastside corner storefront, Sam’s Square Pie grabbed us by the frico and hasn’t let go. The award-winners that owner Jeff Miner pulls from his Forza PizzaMaster oven are Detroit-style pan beauties. Miner crafts nine house pies with his trademark crispy, delightfully charred cheesy edge, or frico, using only brick cheese, which is mild with a sweet, earthy taste and melts like a dream. The most popular pick is the El Jefe laden with two kinds of pepperoni, kicky Italian sausage, generous dollops of ricotta spiked with jalapeños and garlic, and a dappling of hot honey. But really, it’s all about the dough. Miner is self-taught in the art of dough making—and make no mistake, it is an art. His endless experimentation led to a par-baked crust that finishes equal parts airy and chewy. The only menu items besides pizza are garlic knots, cheesy garlic bread, and cheesy pesto garlic bread. Try to resist: The slices are Hearty with a capital H. 2829 E. 10th St.  —CV

Bowls
With a focus on fresh organic ingredients and sustainability, Jacquie’s Northside Nutrition Bar bowls us over with its multilayered breakfast and lunch options. Skip the sandwich and opt for a nice assembly of grains, greens, veggies, and proteins. We like the chicken shawarma bowl with zingy lemon tahini dressing or the artfully arranged beet and feta salad. If your tastes run more toward sweet than savory, stop by in the a.m. for peanut butter oatmeal laced with shreds of coconut and chocolate chips or an acai bowl with fruit, granola, and honey. 9425 N. Meridian St., 317-218-3102  —AL


Farmers Market Eggs

Duane Freed may be new to Indiana farmers markets, but his knowledge of rotating paddocks for pasture-raised chickens goes back to his high school days. His passion landed him a position as CEO of Moyer’s Chicks in southeastern Pennsylvania. During the pandemic, he and wife Ang began searching for a farm of their own to buy and found one in early 2023 near Greensburg, Indiana. The couple now operates Freed Farm, raising antibiotic-free heritage cross chickens on non-GMO feed, which gives the chickens a rich, earthy flavor reminiscent of chicken from decades ago.  —TK

The post BEST OF INDY: DINING appeared first on Indianapolis Monthly.


Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 122

Trending Articles